The first C18th dress I chose to do was a chintz day dress. I saw a few that I loved in this style in Europe, such as this one from the V&A.
I bought Ikea doona cover to use as the main fabric. In fact I’ve got 2, because I liked it so much I decided I wanted one to use as a doona cover as well. The advantages of this fabric are that it was cheap and the fabric is quite soft, unlike quilting fabrics. For a modern fabric I think the pattern is reasonably authentic. I quickly discovered that of course LOTS of people have bought exactly the same thing to make historic costumes, including two other Canberrans, but you can't have everything.
I decided to make two petticoats, one from plain white voile and another from an embroidered muslin I bought from Clegs in Melbourne.
I originally planned to use Sense & Sensibility’s Portrait Dress pattern. However, I needed to add length to the bodice and there was no lengthening line at the waist, so I used the JP Ryan Robe à l'Anglaise pattern instead (much simpler than mucking around with curves and things). I then adjusted that pattern by cutting the armscyes deeper and adjusting the angle of the shoulder straps (I had considerable help at this point, during a costuming weekend in September 2011)
Progress then took a considerable hiatus as on that weekend I discovered that I hated the C18th stays I'd just so lovingly finished. They were painful, made me want to pass out, and didn't get the right shape anyway. So I had to make a new set of stays before I could get on with the gown. Coincidentally, I swore never to make more C18th stays at that point, but I caved eventually.
I loved the trimming on this dress, from the Kyoto Costume Institute and I may still use this as inspiration in the future, but I didn't get time to do anything like this and I don't think it needs it.
I also bought a couple of metres of very beautiful, wide lace to trim the cuffs with. Many dresses and patterns have more shaped cuffs but I think just lace is acceptable for this later 1780-1795 date.
