MMM'14 Week 5

The last week! Sorry that it's a bit of an anti-climax...

Day 28: Colette Jasmine blouse in vintage cotton voile
Deer & Doe Anemone skirt in navy linen (again)

This blouse is the second new make for May 2014. It's been a long time coming... I think it's been languishing since January 2013. The voile is a lovely floral print that Mum picked up for me in a second hand shop in Glasgow, we think it must be vintage because it was quite narrow. The tie is silk chiffon.

I wasn't super happy with this pattern... It came out looking huge and sack-like and I had to take a lot out of the front and back seams, then the sleeves ended up sitting oddly because I should have taken it in more evenly. I suspect Mum may not have believed me about which size to trace though, so I should check that before I attempt it again. The fact that I took the front in a lot really changed the shape of the neckline as well. It looks quite nice but feels like it might slip off my shoulders at times.

And my new Anenome skirt again... It's lovely.

Day 30: Self-drafted dirndl skirt in cotton poplin

As I discussed with a colleague, on Friday I decided to go with the Austrian milkmaid look and run with it (I love that I have a colleague who thinks this is a valid choice). The skirt is self-drafted, it's just lots of rectangles - gathered front and back in to a narrow waistband, zip in one side and pocket in another, then the hem bound with strips cut the other way. The fabric is cotton poplin printed with flowers and stripes which Mum bought for me at Mandors in Glasgow.

I also wore it with my lazy petticoat, which I've worn with other outfits (teal circle skirt, balloon skirt) but so far neglected to mention. It's made from polyester lining fabric, with a yoke gently gathered in to an elastic waistband, then a wide rectangle more heavily gathered in to that and the hem backed with horsehair braid. Does that make sense? I really should have taken a photo. Anyway, it was pretty quick to make and didn't have netting (which is never fun to sew). It doesn't give me the full vintage bell shape but makes sure my skirts don't stick to my legs and gives them a bit of swing. 

Also, check out my hair! I was so proud of learning to do milkmaid braids, except that obviously after practising successfully at home, as soon as I had to leave the house it didn't work properly and kept falling out. But I'm going to keep at this self-improvement thing and learn more fancy hair things (and do them better).

Day 31: Beignet skirt (again again)

So the final day was such an anti-climax... I knew I'd be busy so planned to be lazy and wear a new scarf, but it just didn't cooperate with me so I didn't finish it and I had to fall back on my trusty Beignet. This scarf is kind of a me-made, in that I bought some beautiful merino wool jersey from The Fabric Store and then I... neatened the edges so that I could wrap a square of fabric around my neck. Meh, it's warm.

Also, since I didn't show off any impressive me-made clothing on the final weekend I'm going to take credit for another me-made... new flooring laid in our lounge room! So tired.

MMM'14 Week 4

Day 21: Circle skirt in teal/black check cotton

I self-drafted this full-circle skirt but these days you don't have to! By Hand London now have a calculator. This skirt is probably my most vintage-y make and always makes me feel elegant.

Day 22: Deer & Doe Datura blouse in cotton voile

I bought the fabric for the yoke of this blouse in Tokyo last year. It's a beautiful soft cotton voile with a paisley print. I was only able to get a remnant so it was perfect for the yoke of the Datura. For the body of the blouse, I used cotton voile which is a bit crisper than the yoke and as you can see gets a bit crinkled by the end of the day. I think something softer would have been better, but at least it was easy to sew.

Day 23: Deer & Doe Anemone skirt in navy linen
Deer & Doe Airelle blouse in white hailspot voile

I look long-suffering here after taking lots of photos, but this one shows the skirt best! This is my first new make for MMM and I'm super happy with it. I didn't have to adjust the fit at all, the only alteration I did was to cut 1.5 inches off the length of the longer version so it sits just above the knee (more work appropriate than the mini version).  

The fabric is navy linen lined with rayon.  I'm not sure how ironing will go after washing it, I guess I'll find out! The navy has quite a rough texture with lots of colour in it, which is a nice change from the smooth cotton sateen I used for my Beignet skirt.

The only problem with this skirt is that the hem doesn't sit smoothly which I think is a result of my hand-stitching on the hem catching the top layer of the linen. I'll have to see if I can iron it smoother or I might need to re-do some hand-stitching.

Nothing to say about the Airelle since I wrote about it a couple of weeks ago. Oh, except I think I forgot to mention that I took a inch or so off the length of the sleeve. Also I'm happy that I now have a skirt that's as dark as the collar and cuffs on this blouse!

MMM'14 Week 3

Week 3...

Day 13: Colette Macaron dress in black cotton poplin and teal check

Better view of the bodice detail

 This is my version of the Colette Macaron dress. I really liked this pattern but had trouble coming up with a fabric combination that felt wearable. I had this lovely teal check left over from a skirt. I left the waistband black and I usually wear my teal belt to pick up the colour from the yoke. I'm still not 100% happy with the dress though, the skirt sits a bit awkwardly on me (though since it's plain black it's not very obvious). If I make this pattern again I'll try adding some length to the bodice to see if the skirt sits better if it falls from the waist. 

Day 14: Deer & Doe Belladone in navy taslon (again)

This dress had to make another appearance. It's great (my posture could do with improving though).

Day 16: Sewaholic Cambie in polka dot seersucker

Hmm my Cambie dress. I kind of don't love this as much as I expected to, but I do enjoy wearing it when I get around to it. I think its shortcomings are more to do with me than the pattern,I need to make another version to decide how I feel about it. 

But I do have one tip from making this dress: don't use a fabric with spots AND stripes! It will drive you crazy (though give you a warm fuzzy feeling of satisfaction when they do all line up).

Day 17: By Hand London Anna dress in Nani Iro double gauze

My Anna dress. This is absolutely my favourite thing I've ever made (doesn't everyone say that about their Anna?). It's flattering but modest (perfect for work, engagement parties, lunch on windy mountaintops etc etc) and so comfortable. I made two modifications: added some extra length to the bodice (instructions here) and used a half-circle skirt instead of the 7(?) gore skirt. I think the look of the skirt ended up being pretty similar to the pattern, I just couldn't bear to cut up my beautiful fabric more than I needed to.

Which brings me to the fabric. In case being addicted to Liberty fabric was dangerous enough, I'm now a thorough convert to Nani Iro. I bought a few pieces when I was in Japan last year and this is the first thing I've made with it. I love it! The designs are so gorgeous, detailed and textured! The fabric feels soft but has beautiful body and the double gauze construction means it basically has lining built in. It's been holding up well to my regular wearing and washing, too. 

I need more Annas in my life. And more Nani Iro. More Nani Iro Annas? Perhaps.

MMM'14 Week 2

Here's week 2:

Day 6: Self-drafted pleated skirt in red cotton sateen

The pattern for this skirt is basically the same as last week's balloon skirt (though I made this one first). The colour blocking is based on a skirt I found in a shop, though when I went back to the shop after I'd finished this one I realised it turned out quite different... Never mind, it's bright and cheerful.

Day 9:  Colette Ceylon dress in navy pin-spot cotton

I got this fabric for free after it got used by being stapled to a table. It came pretty good in the wash, but I really need to make another Ceylon in nicer fabric. For a pattern with quite a lot of pieces it came together really nicely.

Day 11: Colette Beignet skirt in navy cotton sateen (again)
Sashiko-style circle scarf

 I spent most of the weekend wearing jeans with holes and a hoodie with a broken zip while we painted our ceiling so on Sunday night I fell back on my comfy option of Beignet with ugg boots (and new octopus leggings!). Then I added a scarf which was based on this tutorial to make up for the other me-made I wore this week and forgot to photograph. Oh well, I'll save that for another week! The scarf fabric is a silk/cotton blend with a sashiko style print that I loved but couldn't figure out what to do with. Sorry about the terrible lighting in this photo but I had limited time/energy before the very important task of WATCHING EUROVISION!

Still sad Sweden didn't win. Or Switzerland.

MMM'14 Week 1

It's the end of my first week of Me Made May! Here's what I wore...

Day 1: Deer & Doe Belladone dress in navy taslon

Shirt: Uniqlo, Cardigan: Portmans, Belt: Alannah Hill, Shoes: Jigsaw

Not much to say about this dress, it's pretty much as it comes from the packet. I love it!

Day 2: Deer & Doe Airelle blouse in white hailspot voile with navy voile collar & cuffs

Colette Beignet skirt in navy cotton stretch sateen

Cardigan: Nunie, Belt: Topshop, Shoes: Hush Puppies

This is the first Deer & Doe pattern I made. It fits perfectly with no adjustment, the darts are beautifully drafted. I have to iron it though, so it's not on high rotation.

And the Beignet skirt. This is probably my favourite piece of clothing. It took me ages to make because I cut it out at size 10 then took in every single seam to make it size 8 then pinned the waist seam about 5 times before realising I was actually pinning the front seam and then the lining ended up longer than the skirt... I don't think there were any problems with the pattern, just my brain. So it sat in a basket while I worked up the energy to finish it. And once I finished it I started wearing almost every week! It's so comfy and flattering and goes with everything. For more photos of my beloved Beignet check out my Japan album on Flickr.

Day 4: Self-drafted Hot Air Balloon skirt

Merino top & cardigan: Portmans, Ugg boots because I'm classy

I self-drafted this skirt, I'd like to say I was clever but it's really just 1 rectangle for the front, 2 for the back and 1 for the waistband.  Oh and some little ones for belt loops! It's very similar to the Deer & Doe Chardon pattern (which is probably a little more sophisticated than my pattern!). I found the hot air balloon fabric at Spotlight, I think it's a 50s reproduction made in Japan. Somehow my mum didn't agree that it was the most amazing fabric ever, but luckily the rest of the world agrees with me and I get nice comments every time I wear it. There are better photos on Flickr.

Sorry about the terrible photos, I kept taking them late at night and on a phone. A new camera is on my shopping list and I think it might be a more urgent than I thought.

Silk Mitts

A couple of weeks ago I finished off these C18th/Regency silk mitts.  I've been collecting pictures of late eighteenth century mitts on Pinterest for a while so I decided to make some up before this year's Jane Austen Festival in April.  They were mostly finished for the event so I wore them but I didn't get around to doing the embroidery until the end of May.

I love my mitts! They're much prettier and more practical than gloves - good for sewing workshops when you want to be able to use your fingers.  Most mitts in museums are dated late eighteenth century so they go with my Ikea dress but apparently they continued to be worn in the Regency period, so that suits me well! I think there will be more mitts in my future.

I used this pattern. I found it on Pinterest, I'm not sure where it's from but I just printed it out full size (cut in half on two A4 sheets). I was going to use the one in Costume Close Up but printing this one seemed easier than scanning, resizing, etc. I just made them the original size from the image. The calico one I did to test the pattern fit me really well but the silk I used for the real ones was stiffer so they're a little bit snug - the side seam on the right hand one is almost pulling through, so next time I need to use a bigger seam allowance.

I used some silk dupion from my stash. The main fabric is an odd blue/yellow-green shot mix that I've never known what to do with but the colour looks nice in this. I lined the points with gold silk dupion. I think I'll make a matching reticule at some point. Silk taffeta or satin would be more accurate but this was the first pair I tried and I wanted to use something I already had. I think I'll make another pair in satin or taffeta soon, with a bigger seam allowance so they don't break! A lot of extant mitts also seem to be lined (often with leather) so maybe I'll add a lining in the future. I thought I could add it to these ones at some point but not if they're already tight!


I stitched the side seam and the point by machine but everything else is done by hand. For the hems I used a tiny spaced backstitch and used threads pulled from the leftover fabric, which I'm quite proud of. I embroidered the lines on the back of the hand with blue silk thread, using herringbone stitch and chain stitch. Many mitts also have herringbone stitch around the thumb and point so I may do that at some point but I shouldn't be doing more embroidery than I have to at the moment, with my hands/arms still being sore. Sigh.

Cross-Stitch

This post was originally published on 9 September 2012

I just finished a cross stitch project! I'm pretty pleased with how it came out. I saw an ad for a pattern in Cross Stitcher magazine for corgis but I couldn't get the right edition, so I was so glad when I found out the pattern was on their website! It is SO CUTE.  The original pattern didn't have a tail though, and since I'm making this for my grandma and her corgi/jack russell has a very character-filled tail I had to add one on. I was worried about doing that so I didn't work on it for a while, but I just put the tail on and I think it came out pretty well.  I'm not 100% sure about the outlining since it was meant to be in dark brown and I didn't bother buying one, but I think he's cute anyway.

Corgi!

I've also got a few more projects lying around that I haven't done anything with yet.

These ones are also from Cross Stitcher magazine (I really like that magazine. It's not all kittens and fairies). I did the bird on a train in Norway and the Santa in Evidence lectures last summer.  I'm planning on putting them on Christmas aprons, I even bought the fabric last year but I ran out of time so I'd better find time this year.

Christmas cross stitch

This was my first go at sewing on evenweave instead of aida (nicer but more effort). There's a couple of mistakes in it, which makes me grumpy, but I'll cope.  I thought I'd turn it into a Christmas decoration.  The pattern is from Modern Folk on Etsy. I love all of their patterns and want to make them all, if only I had the time.

Snowflake

This one took me so long to do. Like, years.  I bought the pattern in Scotland in, I think, 2007? I think I just found it boring to do with all the lines and it never seemed to get anywhere... But I'm really pleased with it now, so it was worth it.  I think I'll frame it, the other suggestion was to make it into a pillow but I'm not brave enough to do that after the time it took to make. The pattern is from Textile Heritage - I've bought quite a lot of things from them on various trips the UK.

Elizabethan Partlet

This post was originally published on 19 August 2012.

I took some time off from the stays this week to make myself an Elizabethan partlet.  My Elizabethan outfit was my first proper historical costume (I made it in 2008) and I'd never got around to to making a partlet to go with it.  I'd returned the one I'd borrowed so thought I'd better make my own in time for yesterday's Renaissance ball.

I wanted to use silk organza, but I've already started hemming the piece I have for an 18th century kerchief (not sure how that'll go, but that's a different story) so I didn't want to cut into that, and the shop that had some until recently seems to have run out.  Frustrating! So I spent a couple of days stressing about that, until I decided to use a piece of silk/linen blend that I was planning to use for lining 18th century things, but  I decided I can always get more when I finally get around to working on it.  I was happy with that, in the end - it's nice and smooth, with the look of linen but a bit of sheen as well. It also creases really nicely, which was good for doing the collar.

It also took me longer than expected to find a pattern - I thought for something as simple as a partlet there must be a free pattern somewhere online, or in one of my books.  Eventually I found this free pattern from Margo Anderson.

Once I found that, everything was pretty straightforward.  The only change I made was to box-pleat rather than gather the frill at the top, which meant I could fold the piece over rather than hem it, and made it look more like a proto-ruff.  I also chose to close the collar with hooks and thread loops rather than ribbon since my necklace is my favourite bit of my Elizabethan costume and I didn't want bits of ribbon getting in the way.

Box-pleating the frill

Side view of the pleats

The partlet

The completed collar

I also added some extra ribbon to the overskirt, which I shouldn't have done because I didn't really have time, but it turned out well.  Wearing the outfit on the night, I was very happy with my overskirt and partlet, but was reminded that the bodice/sleeve situation is a bit of a nightmare, and I think I need to make new sleeves. And an underskirt at some point. I guess I'll ignore that for now and worry about it at the last minute before the next Renaissance event. Hmm.

Wearing the partlet!

Looking tired and vague

And now I just have to clean up the debris of last-minute sewing and dressing. Yay.

Blue Poplin Burda Dress

Fabric: printed poplin from Lincraft

Pattern:  BurdaStyle 02/2011 #104

This was my first attempt at this pattern (later used in the London-Delft dress) which I made last year.  I cut a size 40 but I think I should've cut a 38 - I took it in at the sides and kept having to cut the armholes deeper as they cut in at the front every time I tried to move my arms.  I added a waistband because I thought the bodice looked rather short, then realised it looked terrible with the extra length.  So I kept the waistband, but this time I just laid it on top of the existing bodice.  So it may look like it has an extra piece, but it isn't really functional.  It adds some extra definition to the waist though, which is nice.  I think the skirt might have more fabric in it than it's meant to - I just used the whole width.  Anyway, I'm very happy with this dress : )

Babushka Sewing Bag

This post was originally published on 18 April 2012.

Here's another project I did in the last few months: a sewing bag made from adorable babushka fabric.

I found the gorgeous babushka fabric at the craft fair and knew I needed some.  It's actually printed cotton drill, so it's a good weight for a bag.  Then I came across this pattern and went looking for some matching fabrics.  I love the turquoise, I wasn't super happy with the spots but I like them now. They look like smarties : )

After I'd bought the fabric I looked at the finished dimensions: 8 x 10 x 4 inches.  That seemed a bit small, so I decided to multiply all the measurements by 1.5 so it would be a bit bigger.  Then, of course, I didn't have quite enough fabric so I lined the bag with calico, which actually turned out well because now the interior is bright and unfussy, so it's easy to find things.  Then I spent the whole process worried that it would turn out absurdly huge, but once I did the mitred corners (is that the word I'm looking for?) I decided it was exactly the right size.  I put in a pocket in the side which fits A4 paper perfectly.

I also added a small pocket on the other side for small bits and pieces, like a needlebook, thread scissors, unpicker and tape measure.

I'm really happy with this bag! I use it to keep current projects in, so they're easy to transport if I'm moving around to sew. There are lots of different pockets for all my tools and if I'm organised and remember to put them back when I'm finished I can always find them! I also made a little matching case for my scissors, so the sharp point is protected and won't damage the bag.

'Babushka' is a funny word, isn't it? I find Australians usually say 'Babushka' but other people say 'Matryoshka'. I've heard that 'Babushka' is inappropriate, but wikipedia doesn't think that's true.  It's just... different to everyone else.  Anyway, I usually stick with 'Babushka' because, well, it's what I've always said.

The London-Delft Dress

This post was originally published on 17 April 2012. 

I've been following The Sew Weekly closely for the last few months.  I haven't joined it (I can't sew something every week and I'm not sure how it all works anyway) but I really like the idea of the weekly themes.  They've been making me think more creatively about my projects and their back stories, but not enough for me to actually finish anything coordinated with the themes... But this week I finally finished something that does fit in with a theme! And it's only a day late!

Fabric: Lillian's Berries Tana Lawn from Liberty of London, bodice and skirt lined with white cotton voile.

Pattern: BurdaStyle 02/2011 #104

I remember when I was growing up hearing 'Liberty' fabric mentioned, and my Mum had a few pieces in the cupboard which I knew I wasn't allowed to use, but I don't think I really understood what made it special.  Then when I was studying in Denmark we finally managed to make it to London for a few days and I saw the Liberty shop marked on the map and decided to check it out.  I think during the 5 day trip I managed to drag us back another 2 times, and I've basically been obsessed since then.  The fabric was all so beautiful but rather pricey, so I decided I could get enough for one dress as a special London souvenir.  Given how much it costs elsewhere, as I've since discovered, I wish I'd bought more!

I was really torn on which fabric to choose and I didn't have a particular project in mind.  Eventually I settled on this one because the simple blue and white colour scheme reminded me of Delft tiles.  I'd spent a very pleasant afternoon in Delft a few years before and had been a Vermeer/Girl with a Pearl Earring fan for a few years before that.  I also bought a Delft tile cross stitch pattern at Liberty the same day.  I don't know why my mind was making the connection that day but anyway, it was.  Once I finished the dress I felt it just needed a little something to accent it a bit so I got some matching blue grosgrain ribbon, which I think turned out beautifully.

As for the pattern: I've made this pattern twice before (more on that later) and each time I've got the fit a little better, so hopefully it's pretty good on this one! As in the last version I didn't cut the bodice on the cross as recommended because it takes more fabric.  I think it's fine like this.  I added a lining to the skirt, just a rectangle but less gathered than the main skirt.  The skirt itself uses more fabric than the pattern recommends - Liberty fabric comes about 135cm wide so I used the whole width. The ribbon sash sits just above the waist seam and I added a little double bow for some subtle girliness (in case this dress needed to be more girly).

I decided to use this pattern because it's fairly classic -  it can be casual or dressy and hopefully I won't hate it in 10 years time.  Also the skirt pieces are just big rectangles, so if I do I can always pull it apart!

Then last night I thought of a really good way to do a dress representing Canberra, my home city.  But I'll have to order the fabric.  Oh well, that's another project...